Category Archives: Food

The Ainokura Way of Grilling

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Grilling in an Ainokura way

Trout from the mountain streams are grilled with salt in skewers over live charcoals in an almost standing position. It’s a local fare in Ainokura, a remote but very lovely mountain village in Gokayama region.

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Tastes really smoky good when cooked that I consumed two sticks

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Fish almost fully-cooked

Gula Melaka

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Gula melaka (translation: Melaka sugar) is the palm sugar of Malacca and used as sweetener for Peranakan desserts (e.g. kuih) and beverages. The crudeness of gula melaka reminds me of Philippine panocha, likewise a raw sugar in hemisphere form but extracted from sugarcane instead. Whereas the panocha’s hemisphere came to be because half coconut shells were used to solidify cane sugar, comparatively, the cylindrical shape of gula melaka was formed by solidifying palm sugar in bamboo tubes. Charmingly crude.

Traditional Biscuits in Melaka

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Manual biscuit making at Eng Chee Seng shop in Temenggong street, Bukit China

Whereas the street configuration and structures in Melaka remind me of Georgetown (Penang), their traditional biscuit shops and pineapple tart shops remind me a bit of Macau.

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Paper packaging

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All you need is some tea for these biscuits

Ondeh-Ondeh

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Ondeh-ondeh c/o Mr Ibrahim's hospitality at his traditional house in Kampung Morten

Ondeh-ondeh is one of the many variations of kuih (confection) in Malaysia. Made from glutinous rice flour, mashed sweet potato and tapioca flour, then filled with palm sugar, and covered in desiccated coconut. It’s their pichi-pichi in looks and taste, minus the sweet burst of palm sugar at the core which I’m so fond about the ondeh-ondeh. See, even the name repetition of Filipino kakanin pichi-pichi is another similarity to the kuih.

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Fallen fruits of Melaka tree

Pertaining to the kuih’s green color and round shape, there’s a reason for that, which made it distinctly Melakan.

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I'm pretending to be Parameswara looking up at this Melaka tree

Notably, ondeh-ondeh’s other name is Buah Melaka (translated as Melaka Fruit). So the kuih got its name and appearance from Melaka fruit like how the Melaka State got its name from Melaka tree.

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My host says Melaka fruit is not edible

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Ondeh-ondeh's ad somewhere at Jonker street

Tilapia at Talipapa

Sambal

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Chopped ingredients

Sambal is a Southeast Asian condiment, a sauce, an appetizer, or an accompaniment to rice or viands. And because it’s hot and spicy, it’s something I have dearly adopted. I have learned to prepare sambal in Yogyakarta through Made, a Balinese cook.

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Shrimp paste

There are several variations of sambal, and one can modify the proportions of certain ingredient to suit one’s taste. In a nutshell, here’s the process: chop shallots, garlic, chili peppers, and tomatoes, you may crush all together with a squeeze of calamansi juice, then saute everything with belacan (shrimp paste) in a small amount of oil. You’re done if you feel the urge to sneeze.

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Not the saucy version as I didn’t crush the ingredients. Perfect accompaniment to my weekend lunch of fried eggplant and fried fish

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Here’s Made, the Balinese cook

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Made’s recipes in our cooking class can be found inside this Javanese cookbook

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Here’s Made again

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Front cover of the cookbook. A souvenir from my Jogja trip

Chestnuts

Fish Occupation

Caballas

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Dusking in the Philippines triggers the setup of grilling stand for selling hot-off-the-grill skewered viands.  We see pork or chicken barbeque in those ihaw-ihaw/sinugba stands that materialize every night in Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao – generally.  But those typical Filipino barbeques are not widespread in Zamboanga City. What’s typical in Zambo for evening repast are these grilled caballas.

Izakaya

Pandan in Rice

To achieve an aromatic rice every saing, include few blades of pandan leaves in the steaming.

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My only pot of pandan plant, my source of fresh pandan leaves. Just cut few blades for saing purposes

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After washing, tie leaves together in the same manner as how tanglad blades are tied. Then place inside the rice cooker or caldero at the start of the saing

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The fragrant cooked rice. Ambrosial.

Pepper from Cambodia

I’m not certain for the rest of Cambodia but in Siem Reap, my impression in such a short visit is that – pepper from Kampot province is the pride of Cambodia. That observation came from personal encounters of the hundreds of packs of dried black, red and white peppercorns in the market and to the viands I’ve partaken with clusters of fresh peppercorns (yes still green and still attached to the vine). Moreover, a hotel in Siem Reap welcomed me with black peppercorns wrapped in a tiny weaved box of pandan.

Bulad

Bulad (dried salted fish) of superior quality is plentiful in Zamboanga City public market. Fried bulad with warm rice as accompaniment is best eaten mano mano (hand as utensil). Moreover, think of bulad as fish bacon.

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Lapu lapu

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Dried squid and isda sa bato (that green one)

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Danggit

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Typography: Rolling Ice Cream

Black Viands

A couple of Tausug viands where the black color comes from burnt coconut.

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Tula Itum: Spicy beef soup

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Chicken Pianggang: A variant of grilled chicken

Señor Pagi Vendor

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This señor is selling dried pagi (stingray) at Zamboanga City public market

Upon seeing me taking snapshots of his rays, he funnily posed. This señor and the rest of them palengke folks love to have their photographs taken. This is what I’ve observed with palengke vendors anyplace, and so I oblige each time, and they were giggly happy afterwards. I never tried to ask a vendor to pose for me, they just do it, and they’ve consistently amused me.

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Señor's stock of dried pagi in the bamboo basket

More often than not, this sort of welcoming atmosphere gives me a chance for some cordial exchange in bisaya dialect. That’s how I usually acquire firsthand local knowledge of their trade.

Buriring Season

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The defense mechanism of buriring is to inflate but the container is too small for everyone to puff up

When I was in Malapascua Island at the end of July until early days of August, I came upon residents gathering buriring (pufferfish) just near the shore of the beach. This small edible species is being fished for local consumption.

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Her dinner probably

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A tub for the catch

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A closer look of buriring in its normal size

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Keeping it alive, keeping it fresh

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Buriring fishing instead of playing or schooling

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Packing-up time for mission was accomplished - dinner procurement

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A shopping bag-full of catch

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Bloated yet truly cute

A Table of Binignit Ingredients

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A table of binignit ingredients seen in Carbon Market, Cebu City. They are even retailing the vanilla flavoring (near a bunch of plantain)

Binignit is the Cebuano variation of ginataang halohalo. A sweet mixture of root crops such as sweet potato and yam, also plantain, sago, landang, jackfruit and rice balls stewed in coconut milk.

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Closer look of the sago. Food color makes binignit visually appealing

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Landang for a thick and filling binignit

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Binignit

The Making of Puto Maya

I chanced upon this guy steaming glutinous rice and about to make puto maya in Carbon Market. Here’s a photo narration in the right sequence of this guy’s method in making puto maya.

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Steam the glutinous rice (bugas pilit) al dente in the caldero

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In a sando plastic bag covered hand, use plastic plate to transfer the steamed pilit into a tub

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Prepare a mixture of coconut milk (gata) and sugar with salt

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Pour the gata onto the cooked pilit

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Mix well the gata with the cooked pilit using the versatile plastic plate

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Put the well mixed pilit back in the caldero

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After putting everything back, steam again until fully cooked. From what I gather from the guy’s conversation with another person, this puto maya was ordered for a wake

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A jolly puto maya vendor in Carbon Market. Another type of glutinous rice for this one known locally as tapol. My favorite

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Got some puto maya from the jolly vendor

Meanwhile…

The partaking of some Cebuano fare which can only be captioned well in the local dialect, particularly:

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Lami gyud ang tinowa na isda

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Mao sad ang sinugba na isda

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Unya apilan kining guso, kanang utan gikan sa dagat ba

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Usahay mangita man ko ug mais kay bagay man sa tinowa

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Gimingaw man ko sa ngohiong ug puso